Tuesday, Jun 30th, 2009 ↓

The Groggy Gourmets visit the Bloomfield Sandwich Shop

Our bag-wearing food critics go wild in Pittsburgh’s Little Italy

THERE IS SOMETHING to be said about menus like the one at The Bloomfield Sandwich Shop, a good-looking if obviously named American restaurant on Liberty Avenue.

We’re talking about the kind of menu where you know there will be eggs, both as an entrée and as a sandwich; where there will be pancakes; and where the most expensive item by a stretch will be an omelette. “Comfort food” is inevitable; accordingly, both onion rings and zucchini strips make appearances.

Instead of the mangled east end mess we expected, we were rewarded with something much closer to saucisson en croûte: a mushroom swiss burger, simply but decisively spiced, artfully splayed on a white plate, and flanked by french fries. Heinz 57 sauce - not too much of it - provided just the right amount of additional moisture.

Salads are a surprising strong suit. The Lamb Gyro ($5.75) is flavorful and filling enough to work as main courses for those who need a reprieve from the season’s gluttony.

Details of the décor lend the place a posh feeling, but the lack of a coat check and the flimsy paper napkins detract from it. The room is decidedly handsome and, compared with the claustrophobically tight quarters at other local hot spots, almost roomy, with bar seating and tables designed for fairly large groups.

Every time we left the Sandwich Shop, we did so chatting about how good this or that was and what a good time we’d had. Every time we planned to go back we fretted about whether the menu was too boring or the place wasn’t right for the people we’d invited.

On each occasion our worry was in vain. Taking a well-worn formula, the Sandwich Shop has given it some polish: comfort food in a comfortable setting with just a touch of Bloomfield swagger that, despite yourself, brings you back for more.

The Bloomfield Sandwich Shop
4612 Liberty Ave. (412) 304-2256
HOURS Monday through Saturday, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Sunday, 8:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.